We have some controls for it but the UI is hidden - it works with lights but not yet done for screens. If you can use regedit, you can adjust these keys - they are linear brightness, 0-1000 (but f.lux won't really allow 0). Here are some I was using recently: HKCU/Software/Michael Herf/flux/ daybri = REG_DWORD (1000) nightbri = REG_DWORD (300) latebri = REG_DWORD (200)

No, but there is no right or wrong. Just set it to whatever you like the most. There are no 'rules' to this whatsoever. Just use f.lux how you like. Personally, I use f.lux to make it possible for me to continue using my computer during the last couple hours of my day without being blasted by alerting blue light by setting f.lux to an extremely warm color temperature (800K is my favorite). There's no such thing as trying to use the best settings for whatever type of lighting you have.

It is linked with a Mini DisplayPort (Thunderbolt) to HDMI Adapter on a Surface Pro (2017) if that helps at all.

Yes it does this by default.

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@kmann thx for sharing...this solved the issue for me....no more 21:00 flickering :) much appricated.

@herf said in Custom setting?: Did you turn on "wider slider ranges" in the options menu? Then, the slider should allow 50K increments down to 1200K, no need for hotkeys. Yeah, then you can't easily slide back to 6500K because it doesn't stop there. It just keeps going, which means getting it back to 6500K is still clunky and not as easy as it should be. If this weren't the case, then I'd be using the wider slider range. So no, that's not the solution. I want a solution that enables using the keyboard shortcut to easily go between 800K and 6500K without having to grab the mouse. Requiring the mouse defeats the purpose of keyboard shortcuts. The solution is, just change the default increment from 150K to 50 or 100K, or even 200K. Please? Edit: Whoa, hang on. You're wrong. Using the wider slider range doesn't change the keyboard shortcut increment to 50K. It stays at 150K. Even if it DID change to 50K, it still wouldn't be a good solution because then if you want to slide back to 6500K using the mouse, you have to be careful! That means it becomes annoying and less user-friendly.

@herf said in Your diet may be the reason you have trouble sleeping.: Curious if you compared with a similar snack with the same amount of sodium/carbs/etc. As I said, all of the other ingredients in Cheez-Its are found in other things in my daily diet. The only ingredient not in anything else was the TBHQ. Also, again, there's plenty of research showing that TBHQ causes problems with sleeping. It has been 20 days since I made this thread, and I'm still not experiencing the same problem sleeping that I experienced during the ~1 month of time where I was eating roughly 60 Cheez-Its every day. If you guys really doubt me, then add about 60 Cheez-Its to your diet every day. If after a few days or a couple of weeks you begin noticing that it's more difficult to sleep, then stop eating the Cheez-Its and wait a few days. You will regain your ability to sleep soundly. You will also feel better while you're awake, and it's not entirely due to sleeping better. TBHQ is also known to cause behavioral problems as well. Believe me, I have added way more sodium and carbohydrates to my diet before than what I was getting from the Cheez-Its (like huge daily servings of Tostitos with roughly 7 ounces of Tostitos salsa), but during those times I still slept fine for the most part. Here's another thing: I don't remember TBHQ being on the list of ingredients for Cheez-Its several years ago, and there was a time where I could eat WAY more than just 60 Cheez-Its per day and still have no problems sleeping. Just review the research on TBHQ and how it affects the ability to sleep. It's worse than that though. Just Google the ingredient.

@herf said in Philips 98CRI vs 90 with newer "ALTO" bulbs: If you use LED, try to keep a T8 ballast in place, because the "direct-wire" T8 tubes have terrible flicker. Thanks for that tidbit especially!! As I've mentioned before (Lorna has too) I can see flicker very very well even on most cheaper a19 LED bulbs and terribly on T12s. I am getting into fluorescent as I figured it would be cheaper and there are still more options, more variety to custom ideas like Philips Activiva or 460nm "wavepoint" aquarium bulbs--I don't think I'll find that in an led bulb any time soon. It just puts out a large hill of blue light spanning aqua to violet. I'll look into t8 / t5 LED bulbs but currently fluorescent has the edge on brightness like 54w tubes with 4000+ lumens of light, hopefully that's usually closer to 5000. I havent looked for high output led bulbs but I'll look around. From the website "designing with leds" I've seen some LED T8 tubes that are decent but the blue light cuts short of violet and there is a strong dip in aqua with 4000K (too low color temp for what I want( according to these charts (same website) if you want office style t8 data, I believe it comes with comma separated values files! http://www.designingwithleds.com/light-spectrum-charts-data/ I'm ecstatic about what I've seen from waveform lighting led strips but their tubes do not use the same chips and also they're not bright enough for me so that makes them too expensive. I'd be O.K. with something like waveform tubes if you're aware of similar bulbs I'm all eyes.

We are using broadcast for now, so it should talk to all the bulbs on the LAN. Love to know if it works for your setup, and if not, which version of the bulbs you have. We used the latest BR30 bulb to test. Discovery of the bulbs (and support of some of the oldest ones) is a complicated protocol, so we wanted to get the basic version done first.

@lorna OMG you genius yes that was it! All fixed now I'm so pleased!! TY

@heniek_htw said in 900k: @twocables said in 900k: keyboard shortcuts keyboard shortcuts works grate ! thx. If I go 800-900k and test: I removed the images to reduce the need to scroll. -TwoCables I do not see green. green wavelength exposure (not only blue) suppresses melatonin. Oh, you wanted to block green. I see now. I'm very happy to help! Nevertheless, even 1900K can be 100% "safe" and 100% non-alerting if you are using a very low display brightness. That's why it's the lowest color temperature by default.

@in_gene in my 800k I dont see green: 800k is fine, but before bad time best mode is black mode ;)