Bump. For example, the T12, yes once you look at it, it's obviously fluorescent, but that may not be clear to others.
I'd like to see a section like what you've done with the NOAA data and categorize the light section into "Incandescent / Halogen", then "fluorescent / CFL" and then "LED". This would be very helpful and it would make the page look much neater. I'd gladly take the time to reorganize the page if you were to allow me access to the page layout (just don't let me update the page without your intervention!)
Last visit at LightFair I was aghast that most LED driver modules operate with significant 120Hz flicker as do Seoul Semiconductors Acrich 120vac straight off the line modules and they don't seem to care! Yikes. The min flicker frequency for our lamp is 2KHz at minimum brightness <1% and at full brightness is in the 10's or 100's of kHz. Next time you are at Home Depot or anywhere there is an LED rapidly wave your hand in front of it and look for stroboscopic effect. This is a good way to detect flicker. I just checked out my iPhone that way and now I will have to try with a 'scope and a photocell. Thanks for giving me another reason to dislike my phone :(
I've never seen flicker on an LED lit screen, well, again unless it uses PWM, but I've not seen it on phones, until every damn android phone went to OLED, then I see it way too much.
Anyway, that part about having very high frequency on the LEDs, I can't thank you enough. I didn't get a couple on the kickstarter, as it was decided that we'll wait until it's fully ready, just so there's no issues and such. So I'll get one next year, I'd have to wait a bit anyway so I don't mind if it cost more, I'll support you!
Also back to the LEDs at the store, I don't have to wave my hand, I can look straight at it and see it. It's ridiculous--can they just hire me and let me fire anyone who says that 120hz is O.K.? I really just want to fire all of them! Also whoever wrote the spec on it, REALLY wanted to push it up to 150hz, but guess how that worked out.
@arioda What's especially interesting about the Philips Hue is how it matches the curve of Cree's Truewhite (with its red bump around 620nm) almost exactly, and they both have a nice high-CRI white at 2700K.
@lorna WOAH!!! So you're going to try to chop the price to like, what's that 10%? No that would be $1,000. So 5%? Anyway, I'm just shocked! This is the first time hearing, reading about this, and I'd love to know more!!! It's true what you say, it's out of reach, and there are no mainstream classes or schools that teach this. You and Herf are just absolutely incredible!
Yeah, there are two transition speeds available in f.lux: 20 seconds and 1 hour, labeled as "Fast (20s)" and "Slow (60m)". For some reason, the default is 20. I'd guess that their reason for making it default to 20 is so that if someone installs f.lux on a slow computer, then 20 seconds would be better and easier to tolerate than 1 hour because it would only slow the computer down (slightly) for 20 seconds instead of 1 hour.
@karbop have you thought about using some already available glasses? You might like the orange Uvex glasses, they're about $9 at Amazon.com. You can go see http://fluxometer.com/rainbow/ for some of the different filters (including glasses and f.lux)
@TwoCables oh thank you, I'm sorry @joon for misreading your post. So you want 1200K all day? Would darkroom be a good workaround for you?
Yeah, Joon wants to stop time dead in its tracks. Every morning at sunrise, Joon has to change the location so that f.lux goes back to saying that it's still Nighttime. Right now though, I think you're right that an easier solution would be to switch to Darkroom Mode, even though this kind of inverts everything with just red and black.
I'm with Joon on this one though: I'd much rather be able to choose any color temperature any time I want because sometimes I go to bed before sunset and sometimes I go to bed shortly after sunrise. However, I admit that I have reached a point where I can make my Location change in about 5 seconds.